AIZAWL, CAPITAL OF MIZORAM

If you fly into Aizawl, and you look out the window of the plane, and you will see luxuriant hills of green, with patches of brown jhum, or slash-and-burn cultivation, randomly carved out of the land. Before Lengpui Airport was constructed some eighteen years ago, you had to travel the 127 miles/204 km to Silchar, Assam, instead of the present one-hour long drive to catch a plane. Do not expect Uttarakhand, Kashmir or Himachal Pradesh’s picturesque scenery, this easy-going, unassuming hill station has its own distinct charm. Here pines, deodars and rhododendrons are replaced with dense unyielding herbaceous bush and shrubs, like in a topical forest. Bamboos flourish in these parts, and mixed forests with banana, fern, palm and orchids prevail.

Throughout the ages, the peoples of Mizoram built their villages and towns on mountain slopes; that goes for Aizawl as well. The city is a maze of streets, with the major commerce, restaurants, hotels, etc. confined to the area of Chanmari. As soon as you leave this area, the city changes character, and becomes a homely rustic village. At first glance tourists sometimes come to the conclusion that Mizoram does not offer much to do or see, but that cannot be further from the truth.

What Aizawl has to amuse the traveler, are idyllic night views from Durtlang Hill of this city, and the Mizoram State Museum. Equally important, this is the ideal base camp from where you can set out on numerous wonderful day excursions.

Mizoram State Museum

Mizoram is home to several diverse tribes, and the three-storied State Museum, inaugurated in 1977, serves as a showcase for their rich traditions and cultural heritage. At least 2,000 exhibits are arranged into five galleries; ethnology, textiles, anthropology, history and natural history, with objects of archeological value displayed on the terrace. The life styles of different ethnic tribes are represented in authentic artifacts and tribal paraphernalia like headgear, footwear and dresses, as well as musical instruments, ornaments, paintings, carvings and other works of art. You can lose yourself for hours, gazing at fascinating objects like smoking pipes, calcites and other rare minerals, and excavated inscribed rocks dating back to 1076. If you are interested in the regional wildlife, walk through the exhibits of stuffed indigenous animals, including a racket-tailed drongo, yellow-bellied weasel, flying lizard, giant flying squirrel, flying fox, clouded leopard and green pigeon.
 

Interesting Information

You have heard of the Tropic of Cancer. Well, now you can literally stand on it. This imaginary line runs right through the hamlet of Maubuang Lungsai, Aizawl. So if you are a geography enthusiast, have your picture taken at the stone that was set up to pinpoint the site.
Do make sure you try the Mizos’ favorite delicacy, Chhangban, delicious sticky rice cakes. It is the perfect accompaniment to that cup of steaming tea. By the way, they absolutely love pork, so now you know what to order for your next meal.

Durtlang Hill Vantage Point

Sunsets from Durtlang Hill are spectacular. Stay on a while, watch the darkness descend, and the lights of the town slowly light up until the mountain slope looks like a twinkling miniature universe. If you look closely, you will see the uncanny resemblance between the town lights and the map of India. The viewpoint is situated in the beautiful grounds of Aizawl’s Theological College. Driving back, stop at KV Paradise, the three-story mausoleum erected by Mr. Khawlhring for his beloved wife after she succumbed in a tragic car accident. Spending his entire savings, the result is a grand marble tomb popularly referred to as the Mizo Taj Mahal.

Trekking up Reiek Peak

Reiek, about 18.5 miles/30 km from the state capital, was constructed by the tourism department as a template of what a village should look like. Striving for a litter-free environment, the roads are spotless, the houses neat and colorful, garden hedges look manicured, and there are flower pots everywhere. Reiek lies at the foot of the 5,000 ft./1524 m high peak. The trek leads you through Reiek Resort, a popular gathering place for the locals during the weekend. You will need energy for the hike up the peak, so indulge in some pork momos at the resort, or in one of the village shops.

Starting out on the trail, a gravel road winds past open-ended caves and dense foliage. You can continue on through the forested mountain or take a short cut laid out with stones along the cliff edge. Iron benches on the climb afford welcome respite, and a chance to savor the surroundings. Mountains bring us back to earth; they inspire awe, make us humble, and show us just how small a part we play in the universe. We become spectators of nature’s slow eons-long drama, overwhelmed by the sheer beauty and grandeur around us. All mountains are special, but some are more special than others, and trekking up Reiek Peak only proofs that.

Behind Tuirihiau Falls

Every trip you make to a distant land leaves its echoes in your memory, but some places and experiences get lodged in your very being, never to be parted with. Those are the images that keep on recurring, the stories you always choose to tell. A little gem of a waterfall called Tuirihiau Falls near Thenzawl is such a place. The River Vanva gently flows over a broad stone cliff in a wide watery curtain, splashes over flat rocks and tumbles down a few feet lower into a beautiful pool. The entire waterfall is only 20 ft./6 m high. But what makes this waterfall stand out from most others, is not only its front view. At its back the hill caves in to allow ample space for travelers to stand behind the water curtain without getting wet. A hundred-year-old banyan tree, holding on to the earth with its gnarled aerial roots, adds to the quaintness of the scene. Thenzawl village itself is an enchanting little place, four hours from Aizawl by road, with the falls close by and within easy reach. There is an entrance fee, and the falls close at 5:00 p.m.

Vantawng Falls

Named after the Vantawnga, said to be an excellent swimmer, at 750 ft./228.5 m, this waterfall is the highest in the state of Mizoram, and best viewed during monsoon season. You can view it from a vantage point constructed by the department of tourism some distance away, or if you are the adventurous type, undertake the difficult two-hour trek to the foot of the falls. For this you will need a guide, as you will wade though knee-deep waters, dense vegetation and rough boulders. Nevertheless, viewed from closer up or further away, the waterfall is a breathtaking site.

360˚ Panorama at Sialsuk Tlang

Sialsuk village lies 41.6 miles/67 km from Aizawl, and has a singular kind of entertainment for its inhabitants. Sialsuk Tlang is the highest mountain area in the vicinity, and since there are no clubs, movie theaters, or malls for the youngsters to hang out, they take their music, and maybe a picnic basket elsewhere. Especially over weekends, the hilltops are dotted with the cars of Mizos of all ages, having fun and enjoying themselves. You may even see a wedding party, having their pictures taken in this amazing setting. Find a bench at one of the viewpoints and enjoy the all-round views. However, a four-wheel vehicle is recommended to take the road up, or better still, pack a backpack with food and drinks, and do the trek up on foot, if time allows.

Mizo Munificence

They say that people living in cold climates have warm hearts, and that is definitely the case in Mizoram. You will experience hospitality and friendliness everywhere you go. Try to befriend some of the locals, like your taxi driver or hotel manager. They might just invite you into their homes for a meal. Expect shop owners, and people in the restaurant to inquire about your travels and experiences.

Mizoram stands out as an interesting, welcoming region. A potpourri of various cultures, their hospitality, and the stunning spectacle nature puts up, all add up to its charm. Largely undiscovered by the tourist mobs, now is the time to add Mizoram to your bucket list, before modernization creeps up with its developments and spoil the virgin forests, hidden waterfalls, secret trails, and immaculate little villages. Here you can still find nourishment for the soul on mountain peaks, and rolling hills.

NAVIGATOR

How to get there: Daily flights between Guwahati and Kolkata and Lengpui can be booked. The airport is one hour’s drive from Aizawl. The nearest railway station is at Silchar, 81 miles/130 km away.

When to go: If you plan to travel extensively and do treks, the winter season between November and February is the best time. The waterfalls are magnificent during the monsoon, between June and September. Unfortunately, road blockages and landslides might occur due to heavy rains. Trekking might also be perilous as many reptiles and snakes come out.

Where to stay: In the center of Aizawl, the Grand Hotel has decent rooms, efficient service and good food. It is an intimate business hotel. Hotel Regency on Mac Donald Hill, Zarkawt is your only option for luxury accommodation. Reiek Resort, run by the government, lies 18.6 miles/30 km outside Aizawl. It has private cottages in beautiful green settings. Book here if you plan on doing the Reiek trek or explore the quaint village of Reiek.

What to do and see

• Establish your base in Aizawl, then spend a day enjoying the sights and tastes in the capital. Visit the State Museum to give you a better understanding of the culture and traditions of the people.

• Visit the largest church in the state, Solomon Temple, just outside Aizawl.

• On the road to Durtlang Hill, stop at Mizoram’s’ own dedication to love, the Mizo Taj Mahal. Catch the early sunset and stay until dark to watch the light spectacle as darkness descends on the city.

• Set aside one day for Reiek and the trek up the peak. Sit down to pork momos at one of the cozy restaurants. Then, if you do not suffer from claustrophobia, continue on to Ailawng and explore the Khuangchera Puk Cave near Reiek.

• Take a drive to Thenzawl, a beautiful town surrounded by meadows, waving grasslands and small pools of water.

• Visit the two stunning waterfalls, Tuirihiau and Vantawng, and stroll through the villages of Sialsuk and Hmuifang in the mountains, to admire the wonderful scenery.