On arrival at the Indira Gandhi International Airport in India’s capital around midnight, you will be welcomed by a representative of our company. You will receive all the necessary documentation, and driven to your hotel where you will be assisted with the checking-in process. You will spend one night in New Delhi.

A short flight across the beautiful Nun Kun Mountains takes you west to Srinagar, Kashmir’s summer capital. Here a member of our staff will be ready to meet you, and arrange transport to your home for the following 3 nights; a floating houseboat on Lake Dal. The drive is a pleasant one, passing orchards and crocus fields along the way.

Although wonderful Kashmir is only some 300 miles from Ladakh, the difference is notable. It lies at a lower altitude level, and the overall scenery is fertile and lush green, contrasting with the barren higher landscapes of Ladakh. Long ago people already discovered the natural beauty and pleasant weather of Kashmir; the Mughals, and later the British people, fled the hot plains to enjoy the beautiful lakes and cool climate of this region. Emperor Jahangir fell in love with Kashmir, calling it heaven on earth, and eventually spent his life here. The wonderful gardens around Lake Dal were created by successive Mughal emperors.

Arriving at the lakeshore, a luxury houseboat is ready to welcome you with amazing views of Pir Panjal peaks and the watery paradise. Houseboats are considered the preferred accommodation in Srinagar and come in different shapes and sizes. Yours will be topnotch with 2 or 3 comfortable bedrooms, an elegant dining area, and a luxurious living room. But you will find yourself mostly on the verandah, drinking in nature’s spectacular canvass. Expert staff will take care of all your needs and the houseboat comes with full board. Your boat sits on Lake Nagin, a smaller sister of greater Lake Dal, a quiet, tranquil spot.

A relaxing sunset ride on a local shikara boat will take you along the inhabited manmade islands where locals cultivate their crops, grow flowers and vegetables, and sell their produce.

We get up at the crack of dawn to board our shikaras for a visit to the floating market. This is where local traders sell their flowers, fruit and vegetables, and saffron, often using the age-old method of bartering. Sit back with some herbal tea, typical of the region, while you get acquainted with the local way of life on the lake.

We return to our houseboats for breakfast. Afterward, enjoy your almond infused tea out on the verandah, and observe the birdlife; kites circling high up and kingfishers diving down for their own fishy breakfast.

It is time to explore Srinagar. We head for the town’s pretty streets on a guided tour, admiring ancient historical monuments, bustling markets, and impressive mosques, another reminder that we are in Islam country, in contrast to Ladakh’s Buddhist shrines.

The streets reveal attractive shops, enticing us with hand-embroidered shawls, beautiful pashminas, and traditional paper mâché crafts. We stop for a chat with sellers of dried fruit, coppersmiths, shopkeepers, and visitors to the mosque, to learn more about their everyday way of life. We nibble on fresh apples and dried apricots while admiring the buildings in the old part of town. Constructed with typical tiny, thin bricks, cemented between beams of dark wood, the style resembles the Tudor architecture of the nineteenth century.

To get to the famous Jama Masjid, we walk across the historic old bridge, Zaina Kadal, spanning the Jhelum River. This singular mosque has 378 deodar tree trunk pillars supporting its roof and is the most important place of worship in Kashmir. Shah Hamdan, the oldest mosque in Kashmir, was constructed in 1395 and has a beautiful multi-layered pointed wooden roof. Numerous chandeliers illuminate its decorative interior, and beautiful papier-mâché is used to embellish the ceilings and walls. Our walk terminates at the Zaina Kadal local market.

The Mughal kings left us their well-planned terraced gardens, and this is where we are heading next. The extensive gardens feature fountains, man-made canals and flower beds. We will be viewing two of the most outstanding parks, namely Shalimar and Nishat Baghs, or parks, outside the city on Lake Dal’s eastern shore. You will have ample time to stroll around, admiring the flowerbeds and canals, with the sound of water splashing in the fountains, in your ears.

After a typical Kashmiri lunch in one of Srinagar’s local eateries, we take the road to Shankaracharya Temple and park the vehicles at the base of the hill. Some 250 steps up the hill leading to the ancient temple, revered by Buddhists and Hindus alike. The views of the lake and the city from the top is worthwhile the climb. Back down, we return to the lake and our houseboats for a relaxing, chilled afternoon. Your time is your own, so sit back on the verandah with a refreshing drink and watch the ever-changing landscape reveal its beauty secrets. As the sun sets on the lake and it grows darker, the whole scene is transformed. Shikaras cast spots of color on the water, while the sounds of monks’ chanting prayers hang in the air.

Immediately after breakfast, we drive northeast for 13.6 miles/22 km to the wildlife sanctuary, former hunting grounds of Maharaja Gulab Singh. During our guided walking safari, you will pass by beautiful landscapes; the park has lakes, rivers, waterfalls, and we will walk through dense conifer forests and meadows filled with flowers. The park teems with wildlife and is home to endangered Kashmiri stag or Hangul. Leopards, Himalayan black bears, ibex, large Capra falconeri and Markhor goats also roam this region. Many different bird species can be spotted during your three-hour walk. A welcoming hot lunch is served inside the sanctuary

Back in Srinagar, we visit two more beautiful Mughal gardens, the so-called ‘Abode of Fairies’, Pari Mahal, and Chashma Shahi, the ‘Royal Spring’, admiring the ingenuous layouts and engineering skills of the watercourses. Tonight’s dinner on the houseboat is our farewell to Kashmir.

Today we are not in a hurry since our next overnight destination is only 2 hours’ drive away. We lie in a bit, and then enjoy a leisurely breakfast on our houseboat, watching the activities on Dal Lake.

We are on our way to the 60 miles/ 96 km long Sonamarg Valley, lying at 9,000 ft./3,000 meters above sea level, in a deep gorge between the soaring Himalayan peaks. Firs, pines, silver birch and sycamores paint the landscape with patches of dark green. Comes spring, the valley turns yellow with hundreds of crocuses; no wonder this valley is called the ‘Meadow of Gold’. In summer grasslands surround shepherds’ huts, and all along the valley flows the Sindh River, one of Jhelum’s tributaries.

We follow the Leh road for 52 miles/84 km to Sonmarg, situated just outside the district of Ladakh. This tiny settlement was once a gateway on the Silk Road, but today it serves as a base for visitors to Ladakh. To enter the Ladakh region, one has to traverse Zojila Pass, amongst the highest navigable passes on earth.

The gently sloping hills around Sonmarg are popular with both hardened and rookie trekkers. The dramatic Thajiwas Glacier is the main attraction, a climb of 2.5 mile/4 km away, but if you find that too taxing, hire a pony. Another spectacular trek, along with five mountain lakes, is much longer and pass by Gangabal, Satsar, Gadsar, Kishansar and Vishanasar. Many anglers come here to catch trout in the Sindh River. Wandering along the river bank and through the peaceful meadows is a special experience.

Day six will be spend driving the beautiful, picturesque road between Sonmarg and Lamayuru, a pleasant 143 mile/230 km journey, all the way watching the mountains change color from lush green to hues of blue-grey, then brown. We will stop at Namika La and Fotu La Passes, Mulbekh, Dras and Kargi to stretch our legs, admire the views and take pictures. If we set out at 7 a.m. we will reach Lamayuru between 4 and 5 p.m. with ample time for breaks.

Zoji La links the valley of Kashmir to those of the Indus, Suru and Dras. At 11,500 ft./3,500 m, this important pass and the road leading up to it are inaccessible most of the year because of avalanches and heavy snowfalls. This adventurous drive is not for the faint-hearted; a narrow dirt road follows the curving mountain slopes, around hairpin bends, but do not worry; captivating views will divert your attention.

We stop at Dras, the entranceway into Ladakh. This hill station lies centrally in the Dras Valley at a height of 10,400 ft./3,180 m, and with average temperatures dropping to -20˚C/-4˚F in winter, it is the 2^nd coldest populated village on earth. Lower mountain altitudes do not manage to keep out the cold air coming from Kashmir, resulting in heavy snowfalls from November onward, and temperatures often drop as low as -40˚C/˚40 F.

Our next stop is at Mulbekh, to view the massive 9-meter-tall rock Buddha statue, the Future Buddha or Maitreya, sitting on the national highway at 10,800 ft./3,304 m.  This is where the Muslim culture starts to make way for the Buddhist culture of Leh.

We cross Fotu La, the first of 2 passes across the mountains to Leh, and the highest point between Leh and Srinagar. The winding road soon leads us to an other-worldly ‘Moon Landscape’ consisting of greyish eroded sandstones, sculpted by the ravages of time. Ascending even higher into the mountain, we finally enter Lamayuru, lying at 11,810 ft./3,600 m. In the middle of the little village, perching on its own hilltop sits a monastery of impressive architectural design.

Before we leave Lamayuru, we stop at the monastery. Hundred and fifty Red Hat Buddhist monks reside in the complex, which consists of numerous shrines. We admire their impressive thangka collection, and the beautiful frescoes, before walking down narrow, derelict streets to the oldest remaining structure below the main Gompa. This interesting temple, dating back to the eleventh century, has some creepy protective images.

We take to the road and head for Alchi, a village looking down over the Indus Valley. Its eleventh-century monastery was fortunate to escape the ravages of war, as well as an earthquake.  The temples’ stunning frescoes, depicting Hindu and Buddhist kings, are believed to be amongst the oldest in Ladakh and are different in design from those found in other temples of the region. There are various huge statues of the Buddha and intricate wood carvings in the chapels of this monastic complex. Magnificent artwork in a near Baroque style is a highlight and makes this visit unforgettable.  Alchi Monastery was established during the 10^th century by Rinchen Zangpo, who was said to have constructed 108 sanctuaries in Ladakh. He was also the initiator of the revival of Buddhism at that time.

A short detour north takes us to the ancient Likir Gompa, sitting proudly on a hilltop in the valley. On the roof is a 75 ft./25 m high golden, seated Maitreya Buddha, the future Buddha, facing east. The Gompa has many treasures, like old manuscripts and costumes, earthen pots, and many thangkas in a little museum.

We make another stop at Magnetic Hill. Here, the laws of gravity do not seem to apply, and vehicles roll uphill of their own accord. In reality, it is only an optical illusion, and in spite of the slope seemingly going uphill, it is in actual fact a slight decline.

Soon after, we arrive in Leh (11,500 ft./3,505 m) and check into our hotel.

In this city, you find yourself in the most far-flung, highest region in the country. It is often referred to as ‘Little Tibet’ because of the similarities in landscape and culture. Rainfall is low since it is located to the northern side of the larger Himalayan Range, making Leh a fine summer destination unlike other parts of the mountains. The landscape is barren but captivating, and an abundance of ancient monasteries and palaces add to the region’s attraction. Green oases with bubbling water sources feeding willow groves and villagers living in small, flat roof dwellings, provide refuge from the arid scenery. Tibetan Buddhist traditions flow strongly in the veins of the local people and manifest themselves in the characteristic gompas and monasteries scattered all over the region.

We undertake a pleasant evening walking tour through the streets of Leh. Our hotel is close to the town center, with the impressive Leh Palace keeping a watchful eye over us. We stroll through little alleys, stopping at the bazaar to admire beautiful Tibetan handicrafts. A visit to the Ecological Center reveals the imminent endangerment of Ladakhi culture by an ever-approaching modern-day world. After the walk, observe the street life of the city from a rooftop terrace, while trying out a bowl of traditional Tibetan thugkpa, a noodle soup. Then the last few shopping ventures, Leh has wonderful book stores, before you bed down for the night.

If you are planning this trip during June, July, and August, you have the opportunity to visit one of the colorful Ladakhi festivals.

Festivals are an essential part of Ladakhi culture. Locals come from all over, dressed in their traditional colorful dress to meet up with relatives and friends, eat and drink together, and secure religious merit. Large crowds gather for loads of fun and merriment, as well as gastronomical and spiritual nourishment. The monks’ mask dances or Chhams, dramas portraying the victory of good over evil, will enchant you and is the most important event of the festival. These strictly choreographed, elaborate dance performances are performed to the sounds of horns, cymbals, and drums, altogether amazing to behold.

FIND THE SCHEDULE OF FESTIVALS DURING 2023 BELOW
Yuru Kabgyat Festival, Lamayuru (June 16 and 17, 2023)
Hemis Festival, Hemis (June 28 and June 29, 2023)
Lakdah Polo Festival (July 11 to 17, 2023)
Korzok Gustor Festival, Tso Moriri (July 20 and 21, 2023)
Takthok Festival, Takthok (48 km from Leh) (July 28 to July 29, 2023)
Phyang Festival, Phyang (20 km from Leh) (July 15 to July 16, 2023)

This morning calls for an early start since we want to attend the ceremonial morning prayers at Thikse Monastery, 30 minutes’ drive away. The most distinguishing feature of this site is the gigantic Maitreya Buddha statue standing 3 stories high. During the half-hour ceremony, monks chant their prayers amidst the sounds of drum beats and horns flowing through the mountains. We are left with a feeling of awe and wonder and drift up to the roof for spectacular panoramas of the surroundings before making our way back to the city.

Years ago, the Leh emperors reigned over a vast stretch of land; from western Baltistan, all the way to Lhasa, Tibet, and numerous reminders of the glorious history can still be seen today; you only have to walk through the old part of town with its mosque, temples, bazaars and shops. The palace, although in a semi-ruinous state, is another manifestation of the glory of the past. Leh is truly a unique destination that conjures up images of the wonderful heritage of the region.

We return to the city for a walk-about. We start at our hotel, and head for Changspa, to visit Shanti Stupa. The climb up many steps will require some effort, but the views from the stupa immediately put that out of your mind. Namgyal Tsemo Gompa on the opposite hilltop makes a pretty picture. We descend and continue to Leh’s Royal Palace. This imposing structure nine stories high, was the handiwork of King Singge Namgyal and dates from the 1600s. It seems to preside over the entire town and Indus Valley. We follow the backstreets and end up at the bustling bazaar. After a bit of browsing, it is time to re-energize ourselves with lunch at our hotel.

Our afternoon itinerary starts with a heritage tour under the guidance of an expert attached to the LAMO Center. He/she will provide us with information and insight regarding the traditions and architecture of the city. LAMO is an art center that celebrates and promotes local tradition and talent. It is found in the beautifully restored Munshi house dating from the 17^th century, just below the palace. Our walk commences at the main bazaar mosque, follows the old backstreets, and ends up at the center. Our guide will point out some of the historic houses and discuss the local architecture. There are even some residences owned by people from far-away Yarkand in the central part of India. The walk concludes with an informative tour of the two beautiful former homes which now make up the LAMO Center.

There will be ample time to discover more of Leh, and do some shopping before we drive to Nimmu. This picturesque little village lies near the place where the Zanskar River meets the Indus. The houses are in the traditional style with walnut trees, and apple and apricot orchards all around. We explore Nimmu on foot, stopping at the old caravanserai monastery, and strike up conversations with the locals tending their fields and gardens.  Arriving back, you have the remainder of the day free to relax.

Few have an exciting day ahead of us, but first, we enjoy a hearty breakfast. Then we drive for one hour until we reach Shang Valley, get out and embark on an enjoyable walk of about 2 to 3 hours through green fields to the isolated little Shang Sumdo Temple. Our next stop is at the 1600’s Hemis Gompa, a large, important site, once under the aegis of Ladakh’s royal family. The visit reveals many artistic treasures and important thangkas.

Hemis Festival is a highlight of our trip. We join crowds of locals who gather every year to catch up with old acquaintances, take part in the celebration of Guru Padamasambhava’s birthday, and earn religious merit. The guru is honored in every region of the Himalayas; it is believed that he was responsible for introducing Vajrayana Buddhism in Tibet and Bhutan during the 700’s. Lamas perform their dances dressed in colorful attire and elaborate masks, to the accompaniment of longhorns, cymbals, and drums beats.

If there is time, we go on to Shey Palace, the erstwhile summer palace residence of Leh’s rulers. After a day filled with fun and sightseeing, we return to our hotel for dinner.

The distance of 93 miles/150 km we have to cover to the hidden Nubra Valley does not sound like much, but because this is a winding, underdeveloped road, it will take us 4 to 5 hours. We will also make regular photo stops, the most spectacular at Khardung La Pass, 18,379 ft./5,602 m high. A sign tells us that this is the highest navigable road on earth, and the views across the valley, the city of Leh to the south, and the northern Saser Kangri Massif are unsurpassed.

Nubra translates as ‘green’, an apt name for this fertile valley, where the local villagers use water from the Shyok and Nubra Rivers to grow peas, wheat, fruit, mustard and nuts. In years gone by this region formed part of the Silk Road, and thousands of animals transported merchandise like Indian jewelry, Chinese silk, wool and spices through the valley.

Diskit is a tiny village on the road to Hundar, and the site of Nubra’s most imminent and ancient monasteries. It was built in the 1400s, and the beautiful Buddha statues and thangkas are worth a visit. Outside the monastery is a large, colorful statue of the seated Maitreya Buddha, the future Buddha, a striking sight. On our way to Hundar, we pass miles of sand dunes where we can stop for a 30-minute camel ride on one of the Bactrian camels with their double humps. Be sure to take pictures; the combination of sand dunes and snowcapped peaks is something you do not see every day. Caravans of camels have walked these parts carrying merchandise between Leh and Yarkand in bygone times.

Hundar village served as the main center of the former Nubra Empire and lies peacefully between rivers and trees, with the dilapidated ruins of Chamba Gompa as a witness to its former importance. We overnight in the Nubra Eco Lodge, run by a local family. From your room, you have wonderful views of the surrounding mountains.

We enjoy breakfast while casting our eyes on the incredible landscape outside. Our first destination is Samstanling Monastery, and we drive north across the river Shyok. The large Gompa complex consists of seven temples and looks down on Sumur Village. It is time for a short walk, so we proceed to the so-called Hidden Lake, Yarab Tso, 15 minutes from where we park our vehicle. You might think you are seeing double; the mountains and clouds are perfectly reflected in the still waters of the lake, like an upside-down landscape. After a picnic on the lakeshore, you can take a hike in the area, just arrange it with the guide.

Refreshed in body and soul, we continue on to Panamik. Previously the village was an important stop on the old trade route. These days many visitors enjoy the healing properties of its hot springs.

Our accommodation for the night is the Nubra Eco Lodge resort, where you can relax for the rest of the day, or you may want to stroll through the pretty village and the surrounding area. The locals, called Ladakhi, are especially welcoming towards foreigners since tourism is relatively new in this region; the valley has only recently been opened to visitors.

We have an initial four-hour drive ahead of us, so it is an early start today. We end up not far from the border with Tibet, at Lake Pangong at 13,944 ft./4,250 m. Visitors are not allowed to venture any nearer to the Tibetan border than this. Pangong is the world’s longest and largest saltwater lake, and notwithstanding its high concentration of salt, the lake freezes over completely during the cold winter months. Thirty percent of the lake area lies in Ladakh, the rest is in Tibet, and although there are soldiers on guard, the beautiful turquoise water of the lake is a sight to bewitch any visitor. The colors change all the time, so be ready with your camera; you do not want to miss anything. 

This being a border area, Spangmik is the furthest point you are allowed to go, and there will be stunning views of the northerly Chang Chenmo Mountain Range and its dramatic reflection in the lake.

We tear ourselves away from all this beauty and head for Leh, crossing Chang La Pass, at 17,585 ft./5360 m the highest navigable road on earth, to arrive at remote Changthang, a high altitude plateau where Pashmina sheep herds are dwarfed by gigantic mountains. We stop for lunch in tiny Tagste Village, with a population of under 200 households, and return to Leh where we will spend the night.

Important Info: Today we will drive a total of 193 miles/310 km, and the total driving time will be 8-9 hours.

The flight back to New Delhi will leave you speechless. Make sure to secure a seat next to the window to fully appreciate the majestic mountains from above. On arrival in the capital, a representative will welcome us back and transport us to our accommodation.

The morning will be spent on a tour, with a guide, of Old and New Delhi. In the 1600s the Mughals moved their capital to Delhi from Agra and named it Shah Jahanabad. The fortress was protected by high, thick red brick walls, which can still be seen today. The emperor after whom the ancient city was named also constructed a great mosque, the Jama Masjid, in 1656, and this is where we head next. To this day it is considered the most important and largest in the country. We follow narrow backstreets to Chandi Chowk to admire goldsmiths at their benches, and marvel at the huge variety of merchandise, arts and crafts on sale. Our last stop in the old part of town is the Red Fort, another impressive building commissioned by the emperor Shah Jahan.

We swop the old for the new and go to New Delhi to visit the Sikh temple Bangla Sahib. Here large crowds of people receive free food every day. The India Gate is next. This huge monument was put up in 1931, in honor of the soldiers who succumbed during WWI and the Anglo-Afghan Wars. You will find the names of the fallen engraved on the memorial walls. The same year also saw the erection of the Rashtrapati Bhavan, the official residence of the president of India, also called Viceroy House for a time until 1950. For years the British India Governor had his seat in this building. At sunset, we make our way to Humayun’s Tomb, built in the 1600s by his first wife. This magnificent red sandstone structure was beautifully restored. Depending on the time, we may also stop at the very first monument of a Muslim nature in India, the Qutub Minar Complex, to see the highest brick minaret in the world.

The sun has finally set on a wonderful, extraordinary tour and we return to THE hotel to freshen up and prepare for our flights home.

OPTIONAL DAY TRIP

It is unthinkable to leave India without having seen the famous Taj Mahal. A well-organized Agra day trip can easily be arranged.

From the hotel, you will be taken to the main railway station to board the Shatabdi Express. A fully qualified English speaking guide will accompany you to the Taj Mahal, Agra Fort and on to ancient Fatehpur Sikri to see the beautiful mosque. You will take the evening train back to Delhi.

Important Info: Instead of taking the 2-hours early morning train to Agra, you may also choose to drive to Agra, a 3-hour trip on the Taj Expressway.

If time permits, you have the option to extend your trip with the ‘Golden Triangle Trips’ extension package. This includes visits to Jaipur and the Taj Mahal. The ‘Ten Days Golden Triangle with Goa Beach Holiday’ option includes Jaipur, Agra and Delhi, the three cities that make up the golden triangle, as well as a vacation on Goa’s beaches.