Patan, the second of the three competing city-states that previously fought for control of the region, rises south of the Bagmati River, replacing Kathmandu. The predominant religion in Patan is Buddhism, and local folklore holds that the great Buddhist Emperor Ashoka established the city in the third century BC; however, there is no archaeological evidence to support this. The town has a long-standing history of having master craftsmen, and this distinction still holds today. Also known as “The Charming City,” Lalitpur, Patan is a town.

THE IMPERIAL HOUSE

The centerpiece of Patan is Durbar Square, similar to the other towns in the region. The Imperial House, a magnificent specimen of the Newari building, is surrounded by many monasteries of varying shapes, dimensions, and architectural styles on the square’s eastern side.

Three principal chowks, or gardens, open onto the square and make up the castle. The Sundari Chowk, the furthest south and smallest, is home to the Tusha Hiti, a submerged imperial bathhouse that is a masterwork of marble sculpture and construction. The bathhouse’s exterior, adorned circa 1670, has a double row of bronze statues depicting the eight Ashta Matrikas, the eight Bhairavs, and the eight Nagas. Several of these are now unavailable. The pinnacle of the watershed, into which water pours from a metal-gilded fountain, is encircled by massive stone snakes (nagas). During the 2015 earthquake, the back of the chowk experienced significant damage. The exterior of this garden is defended by stone statues of Ganesh, Hanuman, and Narsingh.

The centerpiece Mul Chowk, constructed in 1666 for Srinivasa Malla, is the earliest garden. The Patan imperial family’s modest two-story home surrounds a courtyard with the Bidya Mandir, a little golden sanctuary in the center. Two exquisite brass representations of Ganga riding a tortoise and Jamuna riding a mythological reptile-like creature protect the Taleju Sanctuary.

The Taleju Bhawani Mandir’s triple-roofed octagonal structure, built around 1666 and houses the imperial god, dominates this castle area in the northeastern corner of the Mul Chowk. In 2015, it experienced roof damage. There has been repair work done. The much-loved “Golden Gate” leads from the main square onto the third garden to the north, the Mani Keshab Narayan Chowk. Here, the Patan Museum is located in a wonderfully renovated structure. With a variety of Hindu and Buddhist art that is thoughtfully arranged and labeled, this gallery is arguably the greatest in Nepal. The window seats on the upper level provide a great vantage point from which to see the activity in the square, and lunch in the modest outdoor eatery is enjoyable. The sanctuary of Degutale, the rulers of the Malla people’s personal deity, is located between this and the major chowk. The monarchs used to execute their sacred Tantric rites in this 1640–built structure, which is topped by a tower with four roofs.